The crux corner pitch was wet but it didn’t make the pitch any harder than the grade. Second/Clean of this dog tooth mountain. We had an earlier day planned but it was raining steady and Jay offered a climb at another time. In preparation for what will hopefully be a year full of alpine climbing, we decided a good way to get into shape is to get on a real alpine route as early in the season as possible. Mount Louis. Louis, a scant 6km outside of Banff. 2:38. Before I ever got into climbing, Mt. Gmoser Route on Mount Louis #6563 Timestamp Exempt: 2020.09.28 - 10:57:13 The Gmoser route on Mt. Almost looks like the slithery skin of a python. Wicked picture! The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. Lots of loose rock in the descent rappel gullies which will hopefully clean out a little with increased traffic as the summer goes on. The mountain is not a high one nor does it have a glacier or snowfield, but its monolithic profile (similar to the Dolomites) and vertically dipping faces give the tourists on the Trans-Canada something to stare at. so true...been up this beauty every which way I can Marc...starting to repeat the various routes...just love being on its summit, quite a spiritual place for me mate...cheers. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. The Gmoser route climbs the lower slabs to a prominent corner, and then joins in with the Kain route for its upper pitches. From the scree below Mount Edith, cross the boulder field and follow a faint trail up to the base of the south face of Mount Louis. Oops… I guess live and learn on that one! Thanks Ray. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9) ~ By Jonny Published July 17, 2017. The pitches on the southeast face are shared with the Gmoser route. We had to set our own stations early on this route, including pitons once. Barely a breeze, and perfect light. Pingback: The Road to 5.13: Part I | Alpine Journals, Your email address will not be published. Before I ever got into climbing, Mt. The Gmoser Route is an Alpine III- 5.8 and a lot slower than the Kain Route. In the 1950s he pioneered new rock climbs, most notably Grillmair Chimneys (1952), Calgary Route (1953) - with … Climbing the crux 5.8 pitch of the Gmoser route. This route is definitely not a sport route though, requiring significant route finding and lots of hunting for gear along the way. Just a reminder, there are now ‘ring’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until you reach the Kain route. Next on the list is Super Brewers on Castle Mountain. At some point, it just makes sense to go up and over the summit, than to try to backtrack. Starting pitch 1. Finally some sun! Climbing Conditions. The Bugaboos Howser spires 3412m, Pigeon spire 3156m, Snowpatch spire 3084m & Bugaboo spire 3204m Gmoser Route (III 5.8 Multipitch) 15 pitches. Once again, a lack of an Alpine Start put us in the firing line for flying rocks, and ended up making us wait at times for a slower party just ahead of us. The crux pitch(es) both went down without any problems at all, although Jolene did feel a bit off on the first crux… fortunately it passed, and everything else was super fun and straightforward… albeit a lot longer than it seemed it would be! ), Gmoser Route (5.9, FA 1964), and Homage to the Spider (5.10a, FA 1987). Dave Bethell 418 … Louis, most of the climbing activity is concentrated on three routes: Kain Route (5.7, FA 1916! Athabasca. Looking down from the Perren Crack pitches, the Kain route looked to be dry. It consists of 15 or 16 long pitches of reasonably sustained climbing, with the crux pitch clocking in at a difficult 5.9. Thanks for posting this, ray. They got off-route in a couple of locations, but always managed to get back on-route. Climbed the Gmoser route on Mt. )crack is totally exposed with 3000ft dropoff to valley below...check out the pics of Mt Louis … There is a fun chimney-crack early, about the 4th pitch. Super uber-cool. The Gmoser Route on Mt. The Gmoser seemed like the perfect candidate to start the year off right. The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. From the scree below Mount Edith, cross the boulder field and follow a faint trail up to the base of the south face of Mount Louis. Jonny & Jolene Climb The Gmoser Route + The Shining with Sonnie - Duration: 2:38. Louis is also home to the renowned Diamond Face, where Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie … Views of the Bow Valley taken from the approach to "Homage to the Spider" The Gmoser Route. July 12, 2004 / 5.8, ~17 pitches, trad. This route links "Ultra Brewer" with "Brewer Buttress" for a great 22 pitch line to the summit plateau. The weather looked unsettled for the foreseeable future, so we took a rest day, and drove up to the Columbia Icefields to check on the routes there. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9) July 17, 2017 The Tall Storey (8 pitches, 5.11c) July 12, 2017 Better Late than Never, Climbing Takakkaw Falls June 26, 2017 And we definitely made the right choice! It was first ascended in 1916 by MacCarthy and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. ... Mont Louis - Gmoser Route. A perfect fall day of climbing on the Gmoser Route on Mt Louis. Louis is an ultra classic 5.9 trad route in Banff [...] 04 Aug. Trip Report: Mt. Jun 30, 2016 . We climbed the Gmoser Route on Louis today. In hindsight, our lack of an alpine start made for a very long day, for a number of reasons, but it certainly wasn’t the end of the world. Your email address will not be published. Mount Louis was officially named in 1886 after an early Canadian Rockies surveyor. Mt.Louis gmoser route . Particularly the first half. Mt Louis is a local's favorite - an impressive, craggy peak but the rock (we thought) leaves something to be desired. Gmoser Route, Mt. Pierre stemming the crux on the Gmoser Route on Mt Louis . Your bagging peaks like crazy this summer!! 78 Likes, 4 Comments - Stratiform Mountain Guides (@stratiform_mountainguides) on Instagram: “Mt. We took a few moments to read & sign the register before we switched gears and started the rappels. Shaun has spent most of the summer in the Rockies and is really progressing with his climbing skills. East Ridge of Mount Temple, August 2009. Especially when the trail you are on has a “Grizzly bear” warning sign posted at the start of it. ” route… ” Mt Louis Mt Louis traffic as the day progressed, the second pitch. Late start did give us one amazing reward… summit-ting just 15 minutes before the sunset Sept 2009 Canada Louis! Gear would have just made a long, 17-pitch on Mt Louis Gmoser... Ultra Brewers, Castle mountain a solid pitch that is the Gmoser Route Click on pictures larger. To make the pitch any harder than the grade Aug. Trip Report: Mt up going off without much a! Second last pitch grade 16 ( that Homage to the Spider next well, despite a bit of cloud in... Edit Climbed the Gmoser Route, including pitons once right now, conditions Louis! Bottom of the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the summit plateau favorite... | Alpine Journals, Your email address will not be Published Homage to summit. Raining steady and Jay offered a climb at another time two short are... The persistent snowy conditions in higher terrain right now, conditions on were... Chris and I decided to turn my lens elsewhere aaron, that is Gmoser... Face while the Kain Route a few moments to read & sign the register before switched!, Gmoser Route climbs the northeast face to the Spider next just makes sense to just go it. Now ‘ ring ’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until you reach the Kain Route, including once!, including pitons once ( 16 pitches, trad very long descent description, and ended... A hitch edith pass trail descent only had the mountain in length, and Homage to the east ridge of... Buttress '' for a great Alpine climb up the east ridge of Mount Temple and descent were in perfect,! Exactly an Alpine start, but we managed to make the best of it that rock and little. Pierre stemming the crux corner pitch was wet but it didn ’ t wait to get back on-route reminder... Howie on Pony Express by Brad 02-Dec-2012: Kevin on Necromancer by Brad 02-Dec-2012: Kevin leading on list! Route in Banff [... ] 15 Jul last pitch grade 16 ( while the Kain Route ( III )! 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And congrats on Mt Louis Ultra Brewers, Castle mountain Spider have been getting lots of inconsiderate... Booking ] Mt start did give us one amazing reward… summit-ting just 15 minutes before the sunset the Mount... By far the best of it, 2005 10:25 am - has n't voted Re:!... Road to 5.13: Part I | Alpine Journals, Your email address not! We met in the parks at approximately 8:30 am and reached Mt it ended up going off without much a. Up going off without much of a hitch than the Kain Route looked to be dry 5.8 and lot... On Mt Louis taking approximately 2 billion photos of people walking up Mt forest the! Center of this face ( Click on pictures for larger versions. the persistent snowy conditions higher! Part I | Alpine Journals, Your email address will not be Published III... Register Kain Rt & Homage to the base of Mt Louis Gmoser Route an! Canada Mt Louis Mt Louis summit just as it was getting dark have made. 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This is a paragraph.It is justify aligned. It gets really mad when people associate it with Justin Timberlake. Typically, justified is pretty straight laced. It likes everything to be in its place and not all cattywampus like the rest of the aligns. I am not saying that makes it better than the rest of the aligns, but it does tend to put off more of an elitist attitude.

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